Oliver's Cornwall
One man's lifetime of wandering, gathered into a single guide. The gardens, great houses, castles, churches, antiquities, harbours and walking country of Cornwall — reviewed honestly, and in his own words.
662 reviews · 1,559 photographs · 8 categories
“Cornwall is a land apart — granite and gorse, hidden gardens and holy wells, a coast that turns from gentle to ferocious in a single afternoon.”
Oliver Howes spent his retirement as a driver-guide and walker, visiting and re-visiting every quarter of the county and writing about what he found with warmth, wit and an unflinching honesty. This site preserves his work in full, exactly as he wrote it.
Places to visit
Eight collections covering hundreds of destinations across Cornwall.
From the collection
A few of Oliver's favourite houses and gardens to begin with.
Antony Woodland Garden
We had been round Antony Woodland Garden previously but I got few photos then. On this occasion, in April 2007, I took plenty of photos, so I felt it was time for a report. Antony House and its garden are in the care of the National Trust. The Woodland Garden remains in the ownership of the Pole-Carew family but is free to members of the NT when the house is open. If you go to Antony, on the Rame Peninsula, to visit house, garden and woodland garden you would do well to allow most of a day; the full circuit of the woodland garden is the better part of five miles and there is a lot to linger over. The woodland garden has its own car park, close to the warden's lodge. The western part of the garden has the major spring interest: hundreds of superb camellias, abundant magnolias, azaleas and rhododendrons, lovely mature woodland with carpets of primroses and bluebells. For part of the way the path follows the River Lynher with views to Ince Castle and Anthony Passage. Sculpture is dotted around and you see a Georgian bath house. The eastern part overlooks the Lynher and the Hamoaze with views to Trematon Castle and the Tamar Bridges. Just off the path is an ancient dovecot. A lovely place for a fairly serious walk. And, if you are visiting the house, its more formal garden is a delight, too.
Bonython Garden
The Bonythons are one of those ancient Cornish families that seem to have disappeared off the Cornish map. They had been at Bonython on the Lizard since the 10th century or earlier and their estate stretched across the Lizard from Poldhu Cove in the west to the Helford River in the north-east. In 1585 one Captain Bonython commanded one of Ralegh's ships that founded the colony at Roanoke; Bonythons settled in America and more made their names in Australia. In the 19th century the estate was acquired by the Lyles and in 1999 by the Nathans. Bonython is a double case of restoration. The handsome Georgian house, of silvery granite, was restored by Robert Lyle in the late 20th century; the continuing garden project is the work of Mrs. Nathan. Bonython, which we visited in September 2006, is very much a summer garden. An avenue of luxuriant hydrangeas leads towards the house. A walled garden is divided in two, the upper part with herbaceous borders, the lower with vegetables and flowers for cutting. Lawns lead to a series of lakes, one sparsely planted, one under development, the middle one richly planted with South African grasses, betraying the owners' origin. Summer 2006 had been very dry so the lakes were weedy and we did not see the garden at its best; we will revisit in high summer.
Bosvigo Garden
It is relatively unusual to find a conventional summer garden in Cornwall. And there are very few town gardens open to the public. Bosvigo, however, is both summer and town garden, situated towards the western edge of Truro. The three acre garden, around a Georgian house, makes a pleasant contrast with the standard Cornish spring garden. Instead of the expected informal ‘Himalayan’ ravine, ablaze with rhododendrons in spring, Bosvigo is an orderly spring and summer garden whose style is of themed areas, walled and enclosed, intimate and precise. A ‘hot’ garden features red, orange and yellow plants; the Vean garden is of white and delicate yellow; elsewhere are areas of pink, mauve and purple. Though minor in its importance, this is a place of colour, vibrancy and profusion but, when we visited in 2003, maintenance seemed a bit disapppointing in places. Tucked away as it is, the garden is probably best found from the A390 Redruth road; turn down Dobbs Lane just after Sainsbury's and you will fnd it on the left when the road becomes Bosvigo Lane. The garden is easily accessible from most of Cornwall. As it is relatively little visited the small amount of parking should pose no problem.
Caerhays Castle Garden
This is Cornwall's most specialised - and probably best - spring garden. Open only mid-Feb to May it boasts the finest imaginable collection of camellias, azaleas, magnolias and rhododendrons. The problem is to hit it when at least two of these are in full bloom. We visited in February 2004 when camellias were at their best, magnolias just opening and Highland cattle grazing in the park. We returned in late March: magnolias were magnificent, rhodos and azaleas out. The castle also opens for guided tours but is very Victorian and not important. Two criticisms: a detailed plan may have good descriptions but numbering doesn't relate to plant labels - and the garden tearoom and the excellent beach caf� were closed on both visits! There is ample car parking by Porthluney Cove.
Carwinion Garden
In April 2008 we took advantage of a Western Morning News '2 for the price of 1' offer to visit a couple of spring gardens near Mawnan Smith in the general area between Falmouth and the Helford River. Neither Carwinion nor Penjerrick could be said to rate anywhere compared to nearby Glendurgan and Trebah. Carwinion is perhaps an acceptable 1� hour visit for its �4 entry charge. Penjerrick is very poor value even at its lower �2.50; more of that elsewhere. Carwinion was the creation of the cadet branch of the Rogers family of Penrose near Helston, now a lovely estate owned by the National Trust, and was laid out in the late 19th century. As is usual in these parts, the 12 acre garden runs down a valley from the house. Unusually, if you exit at the bottom, you can (as we did) follow a footpath down through woodland to the Helford River at Porth Saxon. As you might expect of a garden with a bamboo nursery, that plant rather dominates. There are, however, also some good rhodos, azaleas and pieris and, early in the year, swathes of bluebells, primrose and anemones. Ponds are fairly well maintained but feature gardens - Quarry and Japanese - are disappointing; the Secret garden is better. Keep an eye out for some impressive trees, good tree ferns and vast gunneras.
Chygurno at Lamorna
In May 2008 we had a busy gardens day. There are three gardens in the Lamorna Valley - Chygurno, Trewoofe House and Trewoofe Orchard - and, since we would be passing it on the way to Lamorna, we decided to include Trereife as well. Of the four, Trewoofe Orchard was the undoubted star, Chygurno the most remarkable, Trewoofe House pleasant but not outstanding, and Trereife a waste of time (with one honourable exception, the cafe)). A great bonus was that bluebells were everywhere.
The Countryside
Bodmin Moor, West Penwith, the rivers and valleys, and the great estates of slate and clay country.
Explore the landWalking & Trails
The Coast Path, round walks, and the named long-distance trails — the Saints' Way, Tinners' Way, the Camel Trail and more.
Find a walkExplore the map of Cornwall
See where every place sits across the county.