Towns & Villages
Fishing harbours, market towns and granite hamlets — the living heart of Cornwall.
167 places reviewed by Oliver Howes
On the coast and
in the country
Showing 167 of 167
Altarnun
Altarnun is an attractive village, along with Blisland the most interesting on this part of Bodmin Moor. Aalong the main street there is a straggle of houses, stone or slate built,
And Even More St. Mawgan
Mawgan
Another View of Coverack - From Tess Warburton
Hi Oliver, I was just reading your rather critical review of Coverack. I holiday in Coverack every year, along with many other families who return there each summer to enjoy beauti
Blisland
There is a lot that is both unusual and admirable about Blisland, one of Bodmin Moor's, and indeed Cornwall's, most charming villages. To take the unusual first, you don't find man
Bodmin
Passing through now, on the road to Wadebridge, Bodmin appears at first glance to be a rather scruffy, inconsequential town. But first appearances can deceive. Heading west into Bo
Bodwen
Bodwen scarcely qualifies as a Town or Village; in reality it is no more than a hamlet. You could easily miss most of Bodwen, whose name means the old dwelling. Part of it, the par
Boscastle
When I started this web site I didn't like Boscastle very much. I was about ready to post a critical item when the dreadful flood of August 2004 happened. That was no time for crit
Boyton
On the last Saturday in October 2016 I headed towards the River Tamar and Cornwall's boundary with Devon. I was fortunate with a warm sunny day but disappointed when I found the fi
Bradoc
Some would spell it Bradock, some Braddock; I prefer Bradoc. Whichever way you prefer it the name is English rather than Cornish and is simply a corruption of Broad Oak. It is a ve
Breage & Sithney
I visited Breage, on the Marazion and Penzance road beyond Helston, in mid-May 2017. My purpose was to add to my collection of Cornish Crosses by finding the one in Breage. As it t
Bude - a once run-down town which gets steadily better and better
Our original 2003 report - but please read also the 2009 update box below
Callestick
During a walk in November 2007 from Zelah to Chiverton Cross, as part of the Land's End Trail, I passed through a lot of places with the Callestick (or Callestock) name. Originally
Callington
I was in Callington on a mid October 2016 day when I also looked at Merrymeet, St. Ive Churchtown, West Harrowbarrow and Dupath Holy Well. It is a very ordinary small town with a p
Calstock
I revisited Calstock in early February 2018, after seeing St. Dominica's Church. I had hoped to look inside St. Andrew's Church, half a mile up the hill from Calstock itself; sadly
Camborne
Last time I was in Camborne town, as opposed to the many locations round and about such as Heartlands and Carn Brea, was when Jane and I attended Trevithick Day there in April 2006
Carharrack
I had been through Carharrack on several previous occasions when researching the Redruth and Chacewater Mining Trail, though the very first time was on a walk from Lanner Hill to B
Charlestown
I deal with Charlestown in some detail on my Museums page, under maritime museums, largely because of the Shipwreck and Heritage Centre there. But it is certainly worth an entry in
Coombe
Once part of the Stowe estate of the Grenvilles, the hamlet of Coombe is now owned by the Landmark Trust, which specialises in restoring interesting buildings of historic and archi
Coverack
When I posted this report, back in October 2005, I never expected the furious response I received from lovers of Coverack. So, in December 2010, I am updating my report. Personally
Coverack_Revisited_2017
of Coastal Round Walks, one by Proustock and St. Keverne, the other by Porthkerris, Porthallow and St. Keverne. On Tuesday 8th July 2017 there was heavy overnight rainfall followed
Crantock
Jane and I were in Truro in Mid-October 2017 and, having finished our business early, decided to follow up a news item we had heard on local radio recently and visit the village of
Crantock
While so many Cornish villages sadly have little or nothing left of the facilities that villages once had, Crantock retains many of the features that make a village - church, villa
Creed
Jane and I visited Creed for an NGS open garden day way back in August 2006. Spotting that the garden opens in mid-June this year, 2016, we decided to make another visit. But first
Crowan and Clowance
In mid-May 2017 I visited Crowan and Clowance. I had only been here previously when walking the Land's End Trail in 2009 and had not then lingered in either place. This time I was
Devoran
A charming village, tucked quietly away from the busy Truro to Falmouth road, Devoran's present belies its past. Now a quiet and beautiful creek-side village, boasting a fair numbe
Duloe
Unusually, this entry appears on three different pages: here under towns and villages but also on my antiquities page and my churches and holy places page. The reason is that, for
East and West Portholland
Portholland
Falmouth
There are really several distinct Falmouths. Approaching from the north, first the boatyards and marinas of Penryn, once a separate fishing village. Next Dunstanville Terrace, its
Feock
Pill Creek
Feock on the broad River Fal
When I started this entry I couldn't claim to have explored Feock properly, having just stopped off briefly on my way to Trelissick for a Fal Creek walk. However, I returned in lat
Flushing
Originally called Nankersey, the village acquired its present name when Dutch engineers were employed to build the village’s quays. They were from Vlissingen, known to the British
Fowey
An attractive small town with very narrow streets and a one-way system. However, its quaint and scenic attractions are less easy to enjoy than those of St. Ives and St. Mawes, comp
Golant
I first encountered Golant many years ago, at a time when Jane and I were first looking for a home in Cornwall, she as a returnee, I as an incomer. Then we stayed at the Cormorant
Golden
I would never have thought of visiting Golden, were it not that, when operating my touring business for visiting Americans, I drove Kenneth and Anne Golden from San Diego, Californ
Gorran Haven and Gorran Churchtown
Jane and I had been here in 2002 on a round walk from Porthluney Cove. Then we thought little of Gorran. I repeated the walk in March 2008 and lingered long enough to revise my imp
Grampound
In early June 2016 I visited Creed Church, where my father's cousin Bertie - the Rev. Albert Edward Coulbeck - was rector for three years from 1947 before he moved to St. Just in R
Gulval
On New Year's Eve 2016 I headed down west to visit All Saints Church in Marazion to see an exhibition of works by a local artist - no sign of it. I didn't think much of the church
Gunnislake and Drakewalls
I was in these two villages, shortly before Christmas 2018, only by accident. My intention had been to visit the National Trust's Cotehele for the Christmas Garland and for the Cha
Gunwalloe and Church Cove
I had an outing down west in mid-February 2017, primarily to visit Mullion but also to re-visit delightful Gunwalloe Church Cove on the west side of the Lizard peninsula, not to be
Gwennap
The name Gwennap occurs elsewhere. Gwennap Pit may make some sense as it is only about 2 miles away. Here it refers to St. Gwenap or Wenapa. Down on the south coast of West Penwith
Gwithian
A tiny village on the road from Hayle to Godrevy, Hell's Mouth and Portreath, you are almost through Gwithian before you realise it. But it is worth stopping for a closer look. At
Halsetown near St. Ives
I had driven past Halsetown many times, on the B3311 road from St. Ives to Penzance, but knew nothing about it except that it has a car park and a pub. Then, in November 2007, I to
Hayle
We have a soft spot for run-down places - early industrial sites and shabby towns like Bude and Portreath. Despite proximity to colourful, lively St. Ives, Hayle has something of b
Helland and Helland Bridge
It was a dull Saturday at the very end of September. I had been planning to travel down west to Penzance, to find the Cornish Cross in Morrab Gardens, but decided not to take a cha
Helston
I had been wanting to get to know Helston better for some time so, when Jane and I revisited Godolphin House in April 2007, we took the opportunity to have a wander around the town
Herodsfoot
The small village, four miles south-west of Liskeard, nestles in a wooded valley. Oddly, its church and the former rectory are up a steep hill well above the village with nothing e
Hotels
: 2013 - improving. Hebasca is a boutique hotel in the modern style. The Beach describes itself as 'Luxury Hotel' and looks good.
Kilkhampton
I had been in Kilkhampton previously but mostly just passing through and once to seek out the remains of a Norman motte-and-bailey castle, down the lane towards Stibb and the Combe
Kingsand and Cawsand
This is a charming, tucked away part of Cornwall, more easily accessed by car ferry across the Tamar to Torpoint or by foot ferry from Plymouth to Cremyll than from most of Cornwal
Ladock
Ladock is a small village which we regularly pass through on our way to Truro. It is pleasant enough, just passing through, but the best is to be found uphill on the east side of t
Lamorna
A long and lovely wooded valley drops down for about a mile from Trewoofe to reach the sea at Lamorna Cove. When you get there it is really something of a disappointment: to your r
Landewednack
Down the hill is Church Cove, not to be confused with Gunwalloe Church Cove on the Lizard's west coast. Here the buildings in the cove make a delightful grouping: the old Fish Cell
Lanivet
A small roadside village on the A389. I visited Lanivet in mid August 2016, on a day which included also Bodwen, Lanlivery and Luxulyan. On the road you scarcely have time to notic
Lanlivery
Easily missed, unless you are walking the Saints Way or looking for a good pub, Lanlivery is a charming backwater on the road to almost nowhere. I found it when I sought out the ex
Lanreath
In early September I visited the village of Lanreath, abour five miles north-west of Looe. My primary purpose was to look at the church, of which more later, and to take a look at
Launceston
My earliest memories of Launceston are of an ordinary little town with a terrible traffic problem. That was in the 1950s when there were no decent roads into Cornwall. Now that the
Launceston revisited in February 2016
revisited in February 2016
Lelant
In January 2017 I had an expedition down west. First I went to see Towednack church, closed when I was there recently but happily open this time. Then I continued to Lelant where a
Lerryn
Although Lerryn in only 3 miles from Lostwithiel, and that seems the obvious way to approach it, I think that probably the best and most interesting way to approach the village is
Lewannick
The village of Lewannick is about as far east as you can get in Cornwall, just off the fast A30 road and a couple of miles south-west of Launceston. I was there for the first time
Linkinhorne and Stoke Climsland
Climsland
Liskeard
Liskeard is an odd town. First impressions were of dull, boring, mainly Victorian architecture, though I must confess that I visited on a dull rainy February 2016 day on which the
Looe - a change of heart on a south coast resort town
When I originally reported on Looe a few years ago, I was very harsh about it, really seeing only the tourist tat. In March 2009 I was in Looe when walking the Smugglers Way. I spe
Lostwithiel
This small Cornish town has a lot to offer – history, charming unspoiled streets and the county’s best concentration of antique shops, varying from quality to bric-a-brac. Once Los
Luxulyan
I have long been familiar with the Luxulyan Valley and Jane and I have enjoyed many walks from Ponts Mill to the Treffry Viaduct, heading up along the river past J. T. Treffry's Ch
Madron
Madron lies a little to the north of Penzance, just off the road to Bosullow Common, Lanyon Quoit, Men-an-Tol and Nine Maidens Common. As you drive through you are hard put to deci
Manaccan
Although the Lizard is the best part of an hour and a half's journey from Wadebridge I decided it was high time I visited and reported on several churches down there. I was in Mana
Marazion
Marazion is not a place you pass through on the way to anywhere. So all who go there do so for a purpose. Mostly that purpose is to visit Saint Michael's Mount or to enjoy the beac
Marhamchurch
A couple of miles south-east of Bude, Marhamchurch is a fairly large village of some 700 souls. It stands at the top of a long hill which mirrors the line of the former Bude Canal
Mawgan-in-Meneage
Meneage
Menheniot
I only discovered Menheniot [the name means Hyniet's land according to Craig Weatherhill, St. Neot's place according to Julyan Holmes - take your choice] towards the end of April 2
Merrymeet and St. Ive
St. Ive
Merther Uny
According to one authority Merther translates as the burial place (perhaps of a martyr). In this case, referring to the tiny settlement in the middle of nowhere near Helston and Gw
Mevagissey and Port Mellon
From the photo on the left you would think Mevva (as the Cornish call it) entirely a delightful place: busy harbour, old cottages clustered around it, large newer homes above. I us
Mevagissey Clare
I moved to Mevagissey in 2012 and during that time have been favourably impressed with how the village has improved. Your 2005 review no longer reflects how the village is, so I th
Millbrook
On a soaking wet late November Saturday I had an outing down south-east. I went to Millbrook first where I had hoped to look inside All Saints Church. Unfortunately it was firmly l
Mitchell
Although Mitchell never benefitted from Cornwall's many mining booms, in its time it was a town of some importance. Set in a rich lowland farming area, it was also an important sta
Mithian
A small village, population only around 500, Mithian lies just over a mile to the east of St. Agnes and is signed from the Chiverton Cross to St.. Agnes road soon after the Chivert
More on Looe
Since my original report on Looe, I have passed through it a few times, walking the Cornish Coast Path, but have not spent much time there. So, in early May 2016, Jane and I parked
More Tintagel Images
The Bridge to the Island, opened 2019
More Trethevey
Trethevey
Morwenstow
Comparatively inaccessible but definitely well worth going out of your way for, Morwenstow is Cornwall's most northerly parish; it is the 'holy place of St. Morwenna'. There are tw
Mousehole
With a name like that (it is pronounced Mowzle) it would probably be famous anyway but is notable for its tiny enclosed harbour, granite cottages, little courtyards and flower-fill
Mullion
I looked around Mullion in February 2017 after re-vositing Gunwalloe Church Cove. I must admit that my look-around was not very thorough; esentially I just looked in the church the
Mylor Churchtown and Yacht Harbour
To many this is just Mylor Yacht Harbour, a major yachting and watersports centre where Mylor Creek joins Carrick Roads. With yacht club, large marina, extensive moorings, renowned
Newlyn
Adjacent Penzance is the biggest resort on the south coast of Cornwall, but Newlyn is said to have the third largest fishing fleet in Britain. First impressions are of a gritty wor
Newquay
An odd mixture of tawdry down-market resort and delightful cliffs, headlands and beaches, this is a place best seen on foot along the waterfront. Two hundred years ago just a minin
Old Kea
Late in September 2016 I made an expedition to the other side of Truro to look at Loe Beach, Feock village and church, Old Kea and Kea, tha latter two no more than hamlets. Loe Bea
Padstow
To first-time visitors this may perhaps seem like unchanging Cornwall. But to Jane, remembering Padstow from the 1940s, things have changed greatly. The railway has gone - it's now
Paul
Paul tends to be ignored by visitors, inland as it is from well known destinations such as Penzance, Newlyn and Mousehole. The first three things that strike you are the uncovered
Pelynt
Pelynt - the name is said to mean "the parish of St. Non" - straddles the fairly busy B3359 to Looe. Witrh a couple of exceptions, there is little of interest to be found within th
Penberth Fishing Cove
The National Trust, which owns so much of Cornwall's coastline, also owns the little hamlet of Penberth and its fishing cove. A cluster of cottages, owned by the Trust but leased t
Pentewan, its Trailer Park and its Unexpected Industrial History
Imagine my surprise, walking through Pentewan for the first time, to discover a historic port and more. From early times the stone quarries supplied such homes as Antony with super
Penzance
First developed as a resort in Victorian times, first impressions suggest that Penzance is not generally very attractive. However, stray into the streets between the main shopping
Philleigh
Towards the end of September 2017 I headed down to the Roseland to pay visits to three churches, at Philleigh, Ruan Lanihorne and Lamorran. Philleigh is an attractive small village
Pillaton
It may be in Cornwall, albeit not far west of the Tamar, but its name is not Cornish but Old English, pila tun meaning "the settlement defended by stakes". Not that there is any si
Polkerris
What a contrast to Par, just a mile away across St. Austell Bay. Par is heavily industrial, its waterfront dominated by the vast former china clay works and its associated harbour,
Polkerris
In July 2018 we drove Mick and Margaret, our friends and next-door neighbours to the south coast, to Polkerris near Fowey, and enjoyed an excellent leisurely lunch at Sams on the B
Polperro
We are not very keen on the commercial aspects of Polperro. Streets bustling with day visitors almost elbowing one another for room to move; shops, restaurants and caf�s all design
Polperro Revisited - 2016
In March 2016 I decided it was high time I revisited Polperro. I was last there in 2009 and that was only a matter of passing through when nearing completion of my Cornish Coast Pa
Polruan
Fowey on the west bank and Polruan on the east bank of the Fowey River together guard what was once a strategically important deep water harbour. Fowey and Polruan have between the
Port Isaac
Jane remembers Port Isaac, from her early childhood, as a quiet remote small harbour village with little activity other than the busy fishing fleet. It is very different these days
Port Quin
Port Quin is one of those places that you would be lucky to find if you didn't know it was there, although coast path walkers would encounter it. Tucked away down a narrow steep la
Porthleven
Porthleven is an attractive small town on Cornwall's south coast, three miles to the south-west of Helston. The long narrow harbour is a haven to both fishermen and yachtsmen. It i
Porthoustock and Porthallow
Jane and I were fascinated by Porthoustock when we visited a few years ago. Now I have been back I am even more taken with the place. I was there in November 2005 in the course of
Portloe
Portloe, on the south coast between Gorran Haven and Portscatho, is expensive territory - inhabited largely by wealthy second home owners - and no wonder. It is a total delight. To
Portreath
Jane remembers Portreath from wartime when her father used to explain why the village was closed. When we visited in 2003, I was taken by the long narrow harbour, almost unused, an
Portreath's Industrial History
At a glance you would be hard put to guess at Portreath's great industrial history. Nowadays it is a combination of dormitory town for industrial Redruth and Camborne and a scruffy
Portscatho and Gerrans
I have a special affection for Portscatho because that's where Jane lived for many years. She still has good friends there are likes to visit from time to time, often for charity c
Poughill
Poughill -pronounced Puffle, is tucked away on a quite lane, leading to Northcott Mouth, on the north side of Bude. It is a steep village and the lane is narrow but, fortunately, t
Poundstock
Less than half-a-mile from the busy A39, the so-called Atlantic Highway, Poundstock is a remarkable little hamlet. A lane loops through it from the A39 but otherwise goes nowhere.
Praa Sands - Surf and Sand Resort between Helston and Penzance
To us, who live on Cornwall's north coast, surfing automatically means Bude, Newquay's Watergate Bay and Fistral Beach, Porthtowan, Portreath and Whitesand Bay near Land's End. So,
Probus
What sticks most strongly in my mind, and upsets me most, about Probus, is the destruction of the wonderful Demonstration Garden that stood at the east end of the village. Trelawne
Quethiock
This does seem to be an oddly named village, but less oddly when you understand that it is a variation on "coit" and therefore means wood or woodland, not that there is much woodla
Redruth
What a change since I first knew Redruth. I remember it from the 1950s when heavy holiday traffic clogged the main streets and the whole place had an air of poverty and deprivation
Roche
Oddly for Cornwall, the name Roche, pronounced Roach, is neither Cornish nor English but is from the Norman French La Roche, meaning The Rock: the reason why, to anyone looking at
Rock, on the Camel Estuary
If Newquay is Cornwall's down-market playground, the Camel Estuary is its distinctly up-market counterpart. This is where the seriously rich gather - the permanent rich all year, t
Ruan Lanihorne
Towards the end of September 2017 I headed down to the Roseland to pay visits to three churches, at Philleigh, Ruan Lanihorne and Lamorran. My memories of Ruan Lanihorne [not to be
Ruan Minor, Ruan Major and St. Ruan
Here is an odd collection of small villages, all within a few miles of one another on the Lizard. You would expect Ruan Major, named for St. Rumon, to be the most substantial of th
Saltash
Saltash stands across the broad River Tamar from Plymouth. Two great bridges cross the river: Isambard Kingdom Brunel's great rail bridge of 1859, a remarkable feat of engineering,
Saltash Waterfront
At the very end October 2018 I revisited Saltash, partly in the hope of seeing inside St. Nicholas and St. Faith (I was successful) and partly to visit the waterfront on the broad
Sancreed
I have been in Sancreed, way down west in West Penwith, almost to Land's End, on three occasions. The first was in July 2006, the second in March 2008 then, after a gap of more tha
Seaton
Previously, I had only been in Seaton when passing through walking the Cornish Coast Path and had paid it little attention except to be surprised by the greyness of the beach. This
Sennen Cove
When I was in Sennen Cove in poor weather in 2004 and 2005 I was distinctly unimpressed. I was back again in sunny weather in April 2008 and my view is now a little more favourable
St. Agnes
It is amazing what tourism, second homers, coast path walkers and surfers have done for some Cornish towns and villages - St. Agnes more than most. When Jane first knew it in the 1
St. Cleer
Cleer
St. Clement
Clement
St. Clether
Clether
St. Columb Major
Columb Major
St. Columb Minor and Colan
Minor and Colan
St. Day
Day
St. Dennis
Dennis
St. Ewe
Ewe
St. Gennys
Gennys
St. Germans
Tucked away, just off the main Liskeard to Plymouth road, on the tidal River Lynher - but with relatively little obvious access to the water - is the straggling village of St. Germ
St. Issey
Issey
St. Ives
Cornwall's best known harbour town is on the north coast of West Penwith, just a dozen miles from Land's End. On its north side is Porthmeor, the surfers beach, above it a good bea
St. Just in Penwith
Just in Penwith
St. Keverne on the Lizard Peninsula
Keverne on the Lizard Peninsula
St. Kew
Kew
St. Keyne
Keyne
St. Mabyn
Mabyn
St. Mawes
Rock, on the Camel Estuary on Cornwall's north coast, is the sailing village that gets all the attention from the media, perhaps partly thanks the well-connected youngsters who hol
St. Mawgan
Mawgan
St. Neot on the southern edge of Bodmin Moor
Neot on the southern edge of Bodmin Moor
St. Newlyn East
Newlyn East
St. Teath
Teath
St. Tudy
Tudy
St. Winnow
Best approached, as on the walk below, by following the Rivers Lerryn and Fowey, through broadleaf Ethy Wood and more coniferous Middle Wood. And best of all, approached in late sp
Stratton
As Stratton is close to the English border, you might expect the name to mean "the settlement on the (Roman) road". However, it derives from the little River Stret and means "the v
Talland and Porthallow
The nearest I had previously been to Talland and Porthallow was when walking the Cornish Coast Path between Polperro and Looe in April 2010. The path passes through the two coves o
Tintagel
At first we hated Tintagel as an awful tourist trap. Now we know it better we find we can ignore the tat and concentrate on the interest. Most people come to seek King Arthur and h
Tregony
Tregony is a less than 10 miles from Truro but a world apart. Rather like Grampound it is virtually a one-street village and is on a hill. However, its hill is a great deal steeper
Tresillian
We drive through Tresillian every time we visit Truro or points west of there. As you approach from the east (our direction) what you see as you enter Tresillian, and prepare to tu
Treslothan
When I walked from Beacon to Clowance on the Land's End Trail, I was really surprised by Treslothan hamlet. All very grey and Victorian gothic but all most beautifully maintained.
Trethevey and Trevalga
A walk from Boscastle in January 2008 took in Trevalga hamlet, Trethevy village, St. Nectan's Glen and Forrabury church. Trethevey I remember from my early days of touring when I,
Trevalga
I was back in Trevalga in July 2018. Parking is not easy; you could park in a small lay-by on the main road but these days that means more walk than I can sometimes cope with. Happ
Treverbyn
I visited St. Peter's Treverbyn in mid-October 201`9. At first I thought I was out of luck as the church was locked. However, in the village hall over the road I found churchwarden
Troon
Although I had been near Troon - south of Camborne - on several occasions when seeking mining relics in the area, it was not until August 2007 that I actually drove through the vil
Truro
One of England's smallest cities stands where three streams meet to become the Truro River. From early times Truro was important, its port serving Cornwall's tin and copper trades
Tywardreath
On a sunny day in late April 2016 I had an outing to the south coast to visit Carlyon Bay - to look at progress on "The Beach" (none) - Par Beach and Polkerris. On the way I stoppe
Veryan
A charming little village on the Roseland peninsula, not far from tiny Portloe harbour, Veryan comes in two parts. Veryan itself has a pub, a church, a post office and stores and a
Wadebridge
This is my own hometown. Nothing very much special about it but a very pleasant, convenient place to live. We chose Wadebridge because we wanted a good small town close to where Ja
Warbstow
This expedition, in late February 2016, started as a revisit to Warbstowbury, a vast iron-age hill-fort not far from Camelford in North Cornwall, and Cornwall's second largest afte
Warleggan
I first encountered the moorland village of Warleggan in June 2006 when Jane and I attended a flower festival there. It was a warm, sunny day and gardens were looking lovely and lu
Week St. Mary
I visited Week St. Mary (originally Wyke St. Mary, the Old English Wyke meaning a dairy farm, St. Mary added for the dedication of the church) in late January 2016. My purpose was
Zennor
Just off the scenic north coast road from St. Ives to St. Just-in-Penwith is a tiny charming village, too easily passed by on your way west. Zennor consists of just an essentially