St. Winnow
Best approached, as on the walk below, by following the Rivers Lerryn and Fowey, through broadleaf Ethy Wood and more coniferous Middle Wood. And best of all, approached in late spring when the bluebells and wild garlic proliferate, shown off at their best by the delicate new greenery of Ethy wood. St. Winnow is a tiny hamlet: just a church, a small boatyard, a couple of farms (one selling organic meats and cream teas) and a former boathouse converted to a holiday home. The setting on the River Fowey is idyllic. The church stands where St. Winnoc (some think him the same as Winwaloe) is said to have founded an oratory in around 670AD. Inside are the usual Cornish wagon roofs and some charming and unusual medieval bench ends, including a ship in full sail and a Cornishman in a kilt! There is some stained glass and the 16th century rood screen has been restored. Outside, elaborate Cornish crosses remember several Barons Vivian, local landowners. We have enjoyed cream tea from a seasonal snack shack by the farm before the return leg through the National Trust's Ethy estate. On the way you pass interesting St. Winnow Mill, which worked right up until 1940. The miller's house, listed Grade II is nearby but not very visible. Another mill, Notts Mill, halfway down the valley, on an alternative route, is now a private house.
St. Winnow is included in a round walk from Lerryn.
St. Winnow church overlooks the River Fowey
East bank of Fowey River, best approached from Lostwithiel
More in Towns & Villages
Stratton
As Stratton is close to the English border, you might expect the name to mean "the settlement on the (Roman) road". However, it derives from the little River Stret and means "the valley of the river Neet or Stret". Knowing Stratton previously only as somewhere to pass through on the way to North Devon or to Holsworthy, I was pleasantly surprised when I parked in the free car park on the Holsworthy road and walked up the hill to the church. First, I took photos of attractive Thistledown and Tudor Cottages and of Bridge Cottages across the road. Then I climbed steep Old Post Office Hill through simple Rattenbury Gardens and past the ancient Tree Inn, continuing on up Fore Street to Church Street, a War Memorial, more attractive cottages (see right) and St. Andrews Church. As you approach the church from the lych gate you see a striking (unused) tower entrance, a small statue of St. Andrew above it. Inside is a "clink" door from a former prison. The roofs have carved bosses. There is an elaborate screen, a carved pulpit and an unusual modern brass font cover. Unlike nearby Kilkhampton and Poughill, there are almost no carved bench ends, The Civil War Battle of Stamford Hill took place on 16 May 1643, just off the lane to Poughill; here Hopton's Royalist army defeated Chudleigh's Parliamentarian troops.
Talland and Porthallow
The nearest I had previously been to Talland and Porthallow was when walking the Cornish Coast Path between Polperro and Looe in April 2010. The path passes through the two coves of Talland Bay; the tiny villages of Talland and Porthallow [not to be confused with Porthallow on the Lizard] are up a steep hill inland from Talland Bay. There are some attractive cottages in the villages and the child and dog friendly Talland Bay Hotel in Porthallow village is strongly recommended for its location and lunchtime light food. The church of St. Tallanus is in Talland village. It's a most unusual church, set into a steeply sloping graveyard. As you enter the porch, the body of the 13th to 15th century church, uniquely dedicated to St. Tallanus, is to your right, the detached tower is up steps to your left. Inside are some good memorials and a very fine collection of carved bench ends, mostly of the 16th century. Down in the bay, one cove has a car park and beach caf�, the other a large car park, at its top, behind Smugglers Cottage, the Smugglers Rest caf�. We visited in 2015, between Christmas and New Year. Car parks and toilets in the coves were closed for the winter. There is a path between hotel and beach but we opted to drive the steep hill between the two. The hotel was dressed inside and outside to entertain children in the festive season. It entertained us, too.
Tintagel
At first we hated Tintagel as an awful tourist trap. Now we know it better we find we can ignore the tat and concentrate on the interest. Most people come to seek King Arthur and his Tintagel Castle. For that, park in the designated car park, walk to the Island, climb it, enjoy the views and drink your fill of history, real or mythical. Dedicated Arthurians will also look almost opposite the National Trust's Old Post Office for King Arthur's Halls, an odd mix of Pre-Raphaelite mythology and modern audio-visual. The Old Post Office is really a small 14th century manor house, used in Victorian times as the local mail receiving office. Away from the village, high on cliffs to the west, St. Materiana's church is worth seeing in its own right; close by are ravishing coastal views. On the way there, look out for the Vicarage; enter its ancient gatehouse to find a simple chapel, once a 13th century cottage; look over its garden wall for a medieval dovecote. We enjoy Tintagel for all these things and now think it a shame that most people are unable to see beyond the tourist traps. The village has improved greatly (it cost �2.4 million) but shops, caf�s and restaurants are still mostly aimed at the worst end of the tourist trade and almost all rely on the Arthurian connection. Our preferred eating place is the Olde Malthouse Inn.