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The Bridge to the Island, opened 2019

The "Gallos" figure on the Island

Photographs

This review was written by Oliver Howes and is reproduced here in his own words. All text and photographs remain his work, preserved in his memory.

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Morwenstow

Morwenstow

Comparatively inaccessible but definitely well worth going out of your way for, Morwenstow is Cornwall's most northerly parish; it is the 'holy place of St. Morwenna'. There are two tiny hamlets, Crosstown and Morwenstow. Crosstown is a collection of farms around a large village green, one incorporating a small pub, the Bush. Two tiny bars have half-a-dozen tables and a short, simple and inexpensive menu. A little further on towards the coast is Morwenstow Churchtown. Here are just a church, the former rectory, Rectory Farm, offering teas in summer, a couple of holy wells and Parson Hawker's famous Hut on the cliffs. In the churchyard are a Cornish cross, the figurehead from the 'Caledonia', wrecked off Higher Sharpnose Point, masses of daffodils in spring and, at the top, St. John's Well, accessed separately. A Norman doorway leads into a church with Norman arcading, a medieval fresco and some handsome carved bench ends. Most famous incumbent was Robert Stephen Hawker, vicar for 40 years from 1834.

Mousehole

Mousehole

With a name like that (it is pronounced Mowzle) it would probably be famous anyway but is notable for its tiny enclosed harbour, granite cottages, little courtyards and flower-filled gardens - and a few tales. In 1595 the village was devastated, as were both Penzance and Newlyn, by a Spanish raid; the only building unscathed was a pub. In some unknown year, dreadful gales prevented the village’s fishing boats putting to sea. With the villagers almost starving, Tom Bawcock braved the storm to return with a massive haul of seven types of fish. His feat is celebrated every 23rd December when all Mousehole eats ‘Starry Gazy Pie’ (or stargazie), assorted fish heads looking heavenward through the crust. At this time, Christmas, Mousehole's lights are something to see.