Liskeard
Liskeard is an odd town. First impressions were of dull, boring, mainly Victorian architecture, though I must confess that I visited on a dull rainy February 2016 day on which the dark stone of so many buildings left a dull, uninteresting impression. Previously I had only been in Liskeard (Cornish Lyskerrys, Kerywyd’s Court) on two occasions, once just passing through, on the other seeking a second-hand furniture shop (successful with an excellent buy of oak table and chairs). It is a town of some historical importance, a stannary (tin coinage) town from the 13th century, becoming a chartered borough in 1240. It became boom town in the second half of the 19th century, when most of its major buildings were built on tin and copper profits. The town is also odd in its layout. It stands on two hills, the western containing most of the major buildings, the eastern with Norman and later St. Martin’s church, the second largest in Cornwall after St. Petroc’s in Bodmin. On its north and south walls are thirteen consecration crosses, unique in Cornwall. Barras Street, The Parade and Pike Street have most of the other major buildings: Webb’s Hotel, Stuart House with its museums about the Civil War and about Henry Rice, major mid 19th century Liskeard architect, and excellent tile-hung small Town Museum next to Foresters Hall. In Well Street, off steep Pike Street, is the 16th century town well with its four outlets. Liskeard Revisited
Tile-hung Liskeard Museum on Pike Street
Signed off A38, 13 miles E of Bodmin; ample parking
A few days after my first visit to Liskeard, I went back, this time with Jane. We were blessed with a lovely sunny day. Consequently we covered much more ground than I had covered on my first visit. We parked in Westbourne car park; delightfully we left it by Pig Meadow Lane, passing some intereresting murals, including one with Trethevy Quoit and an engine house. We wandered round all the streets of interest and climbed the eastern hill to visit St. Martin's church. The view to the south front of the church is impressive: an elaborate 4-stage tower with crenellated parapet and large windows with Decorated tracery. Inside, the church has nave and two aisles, the southern effectively a separate chapel with its own screen and a fine collection of carved bench ends. In the graveyard, at the east end of the church is a simple Cornish cross. By the northern lych gate is an attractive house, Church Cottage. On our way around town we were struck by just how many interesting buildings there are. On Well Lane we were shown round an ancient warehouse, still with its winding gear, almost opposite the Pipe Well. Elsewhere, sadly, we ancountered a handsome Georgian building, empty and going to rack and ruin. We managed to find suitable places for both coffee and lunch in, respectively, Fat Frog on Market Street and Bean on Fore Street. I was really pleased that second impressions were so much better than first. We shall visit Liskeard again.
St. Martin's church, tower and south front
Photographs
More in Towns & Villages
Looe - a change of heart on a south coast resort town
When I originally reported on Looe a few years ago, I was very harsh about it, really seeing only the tourist tat. In March 2009 I was in Looe when walking the Smugglers Way. I spent some time walking around the more interesting bits and taking a number of photos. Chris Halls, who runs the 'I Love Looe' website, had taken me to task about my scathing judgment on his town. Having been back in Looe and looked at it through different eyes, I am now happy to revise my original view - though not entirely. Looe comes in three parts. Divided by the River Looe are East Looe, the town's main resort and shopping area, and West Looe, residential and poor shops. The two are joined by a handsome many-arched bridge. Beyond West Looe is smart residential Hannafore with a beach. East Looe has an attractive waterfront with a major fish market, serving Cornwall's second largest fleet (the fish is said to be the best), handsome converted warehouses and the new lifeboat station. Behind these are the charming guildhall and old lifeboat station. Shops and restaurants look better than I remember (but many seem to close in winter) and I have had good fish and chips in Looe. There are lovely walks through Kilminorth Woods along the West Looe River. But, I'm sorry, I still don't like Looe's tatty touristy shops.
Lostwithiel
This small Cornish town has a lot to offer – history, charming unspoiled streets and the county’s best concentration of antique shops, varying from quality to bric-a-brac. Once Lostwithiel was a place of considerable importance. At the end of the 13th century Edmund Earl of Cornwall rebuilt the castle in stone and Lostwithiel then became the administrative centre for the county. It had a port on the River Fowey, exporting tin, the trade in which was managed from the Stannary Court in the Shire Hall, which also operated as the County Treasury. When the Earl of Cornwall was made Duke, the Shire Hall grew into the Duchy Palace. When the river silted up in the 15th century, Lostwithiel lost its tin trade but developed others, pottery, weaving, tanning and pewter-making. St. Bartholemew’s church has an unexpected spire of elaborately carved granite. Unusually, the streets form a grid pattern, originating in medieval times. Fore Street has the shops and tea rooms. Quay Street, by the River Fowey, has former lime kilns at one end, at the other the remains of the old Duchy Palace, behind the heavily buttressed former ‘Coinage Hall’. Across the river, a new apartment development utilises Victorian railroad buildings.
Luxulyan
I have long been familiar with the Luxulyan Valley and Jane and I have enjoyed many walks from Ponts Mill to the Treffry Viaduct, heading up along the river past J. T. Treffry's China Clay Works and returning on the other side of the valley past the impressive Carmears Wheelpit. It is a delightful walk through lovely beech woodland. I had been in Luxulyan village on only a couple of occasions, both when walking the Saints Way. On this occasion in mid-August 2016, Luxulyan was one of group of visits; first I visited Lanivet for the church then I stopped in Lockengate to photograph a roadside Cornish Cross. Then, still heading for Luxulyan, I continued by way of Bodwen and Lanlivery. The first attraction of Luxulyan is its churchyard, for the lych gate with its Cornish Cross and its lantern cross. The second attraction is the Holy Well below the church, restored but sadly not in water. The church itself is almost certainly on an ancient site, a small promontory at the top of a steep hill overlooking the valley. It has nave, two aisles and a three stage battlemented tower, typically Cornish. There is nothing special about its interior, except for the attractive font and the colourful altar. One more thing about Luxulyan - it is pronounced Luxillian.