Philleigh
Towards the end of September 2017 I headed down to the Roseland to pay visits to three churches, at Philleigh, Ruan Lanihorne and Lamorran. Philleigh is an attractive small village with an interesting church and a popular pub, the Roseland Inn, with its own brewery. The approach to St. Filius church is attractive in summer, along an avenue of hydrangeas to the lych gate. The church consists just of nave, aisle and a three stage tower, the third stage short and crenellated. Inside is a 13th century font and striking panels carrying Charles I message to Cornwall, thanking the Cornish for their support in the Civil War. Where the ceiling springs from the nave arcade painted shields carry coats of arms. Round the corner from the church is the most attractive house in the village, the substantial slate hung The Glebe, by much-admired architect Sir John Soane, and described by Pevsner as Georgian but looking more Queen Anne.
Philleigh Church
Church Shield
The Glebe, Philleigh
Photographs
More in Towns & Villages
Pillaton
It may be in Cornwall, albeit not far west of the Tamar, but its name is not Cornish but Old English, pila tun meaning "the settlement defended by stakes". Not that there is any sign of any defensive works there today. A small village, with a population of less than 500, Pillaton nevertheless can boast plenty of interest. The Weary Friar hotel claims 12th century origins as a coaching inn. It has 12 letting rooms, bar and restaurant and a fairly extensive menu. I only had coffee but found the staff very pleasant. Next to the Weary Friar is St. Odulphus Church, basically a 13th century building with three-stage tower, nave, aisle and south transept. The porch has a wagon roof with carved bosses. The interior of the church is fairly plain, notable only for the memorials in the Tillie Chapel in the transept. This is the Tillie family of Pentillie Castle which stands high above the Tamar. One wonders why Tillies should be commemorated here when there are several churches much nearer the home. I also visited Quethiock and Tideford, the latter often mispronounced as spelt but really Tiddyford for its river, the Tiddy.
Polkerris
What a contrast to Par, just a mile away across St. Austell Bay. Par is heavily industrial, its waterfront dominated by the vast former china clay works and its associated harbour, and by a holiday park set immediately above the beach. Polkerris might be another world entirely. Both are in the old parish of Tywardreath - it means 'House on the Strand' and was the inspiration for Daphne du Maurier's novel. Polkerris is reached down a narrow steep lane off the road from Par to Fowey. Parking in the village is non-existent, unless you are a resident or are lunching in the Rashleigh Arms and are lucky enough to get a space in their small car park. Happily there is a large car park a few hundred yards back up the hill, a clear sign that Polkerris gets very busy in season. I visited in March 2005, and even then the car park was fairly well used. The village has a long fishing history, though it no longer has a fleet. As far back as Elizabethan times, however, it could boast the largest pilchard cellars in Cornwall, still there. Also there is the harbour wall and quay built by the Rashleigh family, on whose estate, Menabilly, it stood, in the 18th century. Prosperity didn't last and now Polkerris relies on its pub, caf�s and summer visitors. The Rashleigh Inn is open all year. Sams on the Beach is recommended for its food
Polkerris
In July 2018 we drove Mick and Margaret, our friends and next-door neighbours to the south coast, to Polkerris near Fowey, and enjoyed an excellent leisurely lunch at Sams on the Beach. Sams also has a city venue at 1-2 New Bridge Street in Truro; we hope to try it before too long. To older and creakier folks like me Polkerris has one big disadvantage: unless you are lunching at the Rashleigh Inn, and are able to find space in its car park, you have a five hundred yard walk down from the pay car park. Not too bad but, for me, much tougher on the way back.