Newlyn
Adjacent Penzance is the biggest resort on the south coast of Cornwall, but Newlyn is said to have the third largest fishing fleet in Britain. First impressions are of a gritty working town but there are some quite attractive cottages in streets running up the hill. Focus, of course, is the harbour from which about a hundred boats operate. The fish auction starts at 8 a.m. each day and sells around 10,000 tons of fish a year. Pilchards were once the mainstay but the old Pilchard Works is now apartments. There is a modern art gallery at the east end of town. Oddly, if you want to see Newlyn School artists, you will have to go to Penlee House gallery in Penzance. Just south along the coast is Mousehole.
Newlyn Revisited
In February 2008 Jane and I used trail guides, purchased inexpensively from Penlee House, to enjoy detailed explorations of Mousehole and Newlyn. If you don't already know these two small towns well, we can strongly recommend the exercise. The guides are strong on both history and information and in each you follow a series of 10 bronze waymarks made by Newlyn sculptor Tom Leaper.
Follow coast road south from Penzance
Pontoons in Newlyn's old harbour, from Old Quay
Mousehole and Newlyn Christmas Lights
I revisited the fishing harbour town of Newlyn shortly before Christmas 2017 as an addition to a first visit I made that day to St. Hilary Churchtown. Parking is very convenient, right in the centre and just across the road from Warrens Pasty Shop. I was there to see what changes had been made on The Coombe, the street that leads up to the main A30, and to take a look in St. Peter's Church for the first time. What struck me first was how much better the centre of town looks now than last time I was there, several years ago. Redundant buildings on the east side of The Coombe are now a handsome apartment block; opposite a former works building has become the Cinema, complete with bar and cafe. I was disappointed to see that Aunty May's was closed; Jane and I have enjoyed fine pasties from Aunty May and, happily, closure was only temporary. I walked around as much of the harbour as I was able, though that was limited by barriers as the fish market was closed. Several trawlers were tied up in the main harbour, many more on the pontoons in the South Harbour but the place was deserted, perhaps not surprising just before Christmas.
Newlyn Pilchard Works Apartments
Newlyn Cinema
Photographs
More in Towns & Villages
Newquay
An odd mixture of tawdry down-market resort and delightful cliffs, headlands and beaches, this is a place best seen on foot along the waterfront. Two hundred years ago just a mining and fishing village, the railroad then brought wealthy visitors and grand hotels. Lapsing to down-market in the 20th century, Newquay's discovery as a surfers paradise (Fistral is the major surfing beach) has seen much improvement. A Huer's Hut was once the look-out tower for pilchard shoals. The eight-man pilot gig is now raced; once the gigs competed to get their pilot to incoming boats first. One aspect of Newquay of which I have no experience is its nightlife. I am happy for it to stay that way. I am told that the many clubs and nightclubs seethe with action at night, much of it drunken and troublesome.
Old Kea
Late in September 2016 I made an expedition to the other side of Truro to look at Loe Beach, Feock village and church, Old Kea and Kea, tha latter two no more than hamlets. Loe Beach may sound promising but is a great disappointment. In season, a car park, caf� and slipway; out of season, a boat park, no car park or caf�, and a poor quality beach. It is saved only by views down Carrick Roads. Old Kea, however, is well worth a visit. It consists only of Churchtown Farm, the ivy-clad tower of the former medieval church, and a charming small Victorian church in the photo to the left. Outside the porch is the shaft of an old Cornish Cross. The free-standing tower is all that remains of a monastery, founded in the 13th century on the site of St. Kea's original monastery, and then important enough that its 7000 acre estate extended to Baldhu, Chacewater and Scorrier. Inside is a simply carved early font and a newly (October 2016) dedicated stained glass window in the tiny chancel. This is a charming spot, well off the beaten track. I first encountered it in the course of a Fal Creeks walk from the National Trust''s Trelissick estate. Kea: Kea church was a disappointment. I was unable to gain access to the Victorian building (a notice in the porch said "Welcome", so why was the door firmly locked). The exterior has little to commend it, except for an attractive lead-covered spire, unusual for Cornwall.
Padstow
To first-time visitors this may perhaps seem like unchanging Cornwall. But to Jane, remembering Padstow from the 1940s, things have changed greatly. The railway has gone - it's now a hiking and cycling trail; restaurants and shops concentrate on tourists; foodies have arrived, enticed by Rick Stein's seafood empire. Fishing boats do still land their catches (though much of it is exported) and the restaurants specialise in seafood. The views across the Camel estuary are to the village of Rock and a little landing craft type ferry carries hikers and holiday makers. Cream teas are all you expect; try the lounge of the Metropole. Some of the Cornish pasties are good, too, especially at the Chough bakery by the harbour and at Rick Stein's delicatessen. Wander around narrow, steep streets; walk up the hill behind the town to visit the 'great house', Prideaux Place. For all this, we no longer much like Padstow. In the season it heaves with people and cars; out of season it seems deserted, caf�s and restaurants closed, many shops deserted. Thanks to second homers, housing is very expensive so less and less native Padstonians actually live there. It should be a lovely small harbour town but now it disappoints us. The Camel Trail starts here, offering cyclists an 18 mile trail to Wenford Bridge on level hard surfaces. The Saints Way also starts here - 30 miles to Fowey.