Charlestown
I deal with Charlestown in some detail on my Museums page, under maritime museums, largely because of the Shipwreck and Heritage Centre there. But it is certainly worth an entry in its own right and another photo. Originally known as West Polmear, you might normally expect that the name of Charlestown would have been acquired in the 17th century and would reflect a connection with King Charles I or II. But the man it is named for is Charles Rashleigh, landowner with interests in mines, china clay and railways. Employing engineer John Smeaton, during the early 19th century he transformed a small fishing harbour into what you now see. The surprise is that Charlestown has retained its Georgian flavour so strongly, despite the presence of 21st century tourism. There are a couple of pubs; the Rashleigh Arms, on Fore Street above the harbour, is preferred, particularly since its make-over. There are several restaurants and caf�s, most open all day and serving good local produce. Charlestown is a lovely place to visit but it can get very busy, so you would do best to avoid the height of the holiday season. The village is signed from the halfway along the A390 St. Austell by-pass, a busy and often congested road; given the choice and a nice day I would always prefer to approach it along the coast path.
Signed from A390 St. Austell bypass
Charlestown, looking from the outer harbour wall
More in Towns & Villages
Coombe
Once part of the Stowe estate of the Grenvilles, the hamlet of Coombe is now owned by the Landmark Trust, which specialises in restoring interesting buildings of historic and architectural importance and letting them as up-market holiday rentals. The surrounding land is part of the National Trust’s Stowe Barton estate. The hamlet consists of a tall watermill, once known as Stowe Mill, the mill house, two semi-detatched cottages and a couple of converted barns. All, apart from the mill, are rentable. The mill is intact, including all its machinery and a large waterwheel, but large a colony of bats prevents its conversion at present. However, the Landmark Trust hopes to use the mill to provide Coombe’s electricity. The hamlet is divided by a small river with a shallow paved ford and a footbridge. Cottages are thatched and whitewashed, all are quite charming and easy to photograph. One pair of cottages is known as Hawker’s Cottages. For a while Rev. Stephen Hawker, rector of Morwenstow, lived in the left-hand one. Coombe is just half-a-mile from the coast at Duckpool but, if on foot, the most enjoyable way to approach is from Stowe Barton, on a path through broadleaf woodland. You can do this as part of a round walk from Northcott Mouth.
Coverack
When I posted this report, back in October 2005, I never expected the furious response I received from lovers of Coverack. So, in December 2010, I am updating my report. Personally, and that's what this site is all about, I still don't much like the village. The feeling I get from many visits is of drabness but clearly I am in a minority so I shall now try to be fairer. Many families holiday here year after year and love it. The beach can be more rock than sand, even at low tide, but that varies from year to year. I have often noticed wind-surfers here, the sheltered bay makes a good spot for that. There are several attractive thatched cottages on and off the main street. Views are a bit restricted but are best from Dolour Point. Coverack's one serious claim to fame was its lifeboats which, over the centuries, saved countless lives, many from ships wrecked on the dreaded Manacles reef. In 1898 the SS Mohegan was wrecked there with the loss of 106 lives. The following year American liner SS Paris went aground on Dolour Point but no lives were lost. The village's pleasant pub, the Paris Hotel, commerorates the occasion. Sadly, there is no longer a lifeboat in Coverack and the former lifeboat station is now a restaurant (good reputation for its fish). Harbour Lights caf� is open all year. Below is an email from my first critic, her view supported in 2010 by Matt Tonkins of St. Keverne.
Coverack_Revisited_2017
of Coastal Round Walks, one by Proustock and St. Keverne, the other by Porthkerris, Porthallow and St. Keverne. On Tuesday 8th July 2017 there was heavy overnight rainfall followed by disastrous flooding which was reported even on national television. It may not have been as bad as the notorious Boscastle flood of 2004 but a great deal of damage was done. The large car park and the road into the village were torn up but Cornwall Council and their engineering agency Cormac pulled out all the stops and within a very few days access was fully open again. We felt we should show solidarity so on 1st August we made the almost 2 hour trip (the return took much less time) to Coverack to see how it was faring. The (honesrty box) car park was fully open and you would never guess that the road had been torn torn up only three weeks before. The sun was shining as we walked down into the village and everywhere was looking lovely, far better than my memory of the place. On the way we stopped at Elizabeth's (below left). I had a well filled bacon bap, Jane crab sandwiches - excellent. When I had been in Coverack previously, each time the weather had been dull. and photographs had disapppointed; this time the day was ideal and I got some really good images.